The gem-set Daytonas, and why the reference number is the least useful thing about them.
Rolex's gem-set Daytonas are the end of the catalogue most people never see. They are built around the same 40 mm Oyster case and the same chronograph movement as every other Daytona, and then set — bezel, lugs, crown guards, dial — in Rolex's own gem-setting workshop, to a specification that varies by run.
That is why a reference number tells you less here than it does anywhere else in the line. Two watches sharing one reference can differ in the cut of the bezel stones, the colour gradient, whether the lugs are set, and what the dial is. The one in this frame is a yellow gold case with a pavé dial and square-cut red stones around the bezel.
Sourcing one is a conversation about stones before it is a conversation about references. Tell us the metal, the stone colour and whether you want the dial set, and we will come back with what exists, what it is, and what is realistically findable.
- Set in Rolex's own gem-setting workshop, not by a third party
- Pavé diamond dial with gem-set hour markers
- Square-cut coloured stones around the bezel, diamond-set lugs
- Made in tiny numbers; specification varies between runs