Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R
18 ct rose gold · brown dial · integrated bracelet · 40.5 mm
The Nautilus chronograph in rose gold, with the brown dial that only really works in this metal.
- Reference
- 5980/1R
- Metal
- 18 ct rose gold
- Size
- 40.5 mm
- Calibre
- CH 28-520 C
- Complication
- Flyback chronograph
One counter instead of three, which is the whole idea.
The 5980 was the first Nautilus chronograph, and its defining decision is what is not on the dial. Instead of separate minute and hour counters, Patek uses a single monocounter at six o'clock that reads elapsed time up to sixty minutes on two concentric scales. The dial stays clean, the Nautilus proportions survive, and the watch does not end up looking like a chronograph wearing a Nautilus case.
The movement is calibre CH 28-520 C, self-winding with a 21 ct gold rotor, and the chronograph is a flyback. In rose gold the brown gradated dial is the pairing Patek keeps coming back to — warm against the case in a way the blue and black dials are not.
It is a gold sports chronograph on an integrated gold bracelet, which puts it in small-production territory. This is a network search, and the condition of the bracelet will matter as much as the condition of the watch.
- Single 60-minute monocounter rather than separate counters
- Flyback chronograph on calibre CH 28-520 C with a gold rotor
- Brown gradated dial with Patek's horizontal embossing
- Integrated 18 ct rose gold bracelet, part of the case design
As it leaves the manufacture
- Case and dial
- Case
- 40.5 mm, 18 ct rose gold, rounded octagonal bezel
- Crystal
- Sapphire, with a sapphire case back
- Dial
- Brown gradated, horizontally embossed, gold applied markers
- Counter
- 60-minute monocounter at six o'clock, two concentric scales
- Water resistance
- 120 m
- Movement
- Calibre
- CH 28-520 C, Patek Philippe
- Type
- Self-winding flyback chronograph, column wheel
- Rotor
- 21 ct gold central rotor
- Power reserve
- Approximately 45 to 55 hours
- Certification
- Patek Philippe Seal
- Functions
- Hours, minutes, date; flyback chronograph with 60-minute monocounter
- Bracelet
- Bracelet
- 18 ct rose gold, integrated into the case
- Clasp
- Patek Philippe fold-over clasp in rose gold
- Note
- The bracelet is not interchangeable; it is part of the case design
Other Patek Philippe watches requested
Each page is a guide to the reference and how we source it, not a listing. If yours is not here, ask anyway.
Sourced to your brief, itemised before you decide
Nothing on this page is stock. A gold Nautilus chronograph is a small-production watch, found rather than ordered.
The brief
The metal and the dial colour, and whether you want the bracelet or would take a strap reference. Say if a full set with the Certificate of Origin matters.
Availability and timing
Confirmed for each request. We will tell you plainly what is realistic rather than quote a date we cannot keep.
What accompanies the watch
Original box, Certificate of Origin, booklets and any additional links are itemised for the individual watch we propose.
Condition and documents
Bracelet stretch, link wear and any past polishing are set out alongside originality, the chronograph's service history and any verification arrangements you want made.
Four steps, no pressure
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Brief
Send the reference by WhatsApp or the form, with the dial, set and timing that matter to you. A collection or a style is enough to begin.
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Source
We go to our network rather than a boutique list, and come back with what is realistic on availability and timing before you commit to anything.
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Verify
Condition, documents and what accompanies the watch are set out in writing for the individual piece we propose. You decide with the details in front of you.
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Settle and deliver
Bank transfer in any major currency, or crypto. Collection in London or fully insured delivery, agreed for the watch and the destination.
Looking for a different watch?
Any brand, any reference, whether or not it appears on this site. Tell us what you have in mind and we take it from there.
Frequently asked questions
Why does it only have one chronograph counter?
Patek uses a monocounter that reads up to sixty minutes on two concentric scales, so one subdial does the job of two. It keeps the dial uncluttered and preserves the Nautilus proportions.
What is the difference between the 5980 and the 5990?
The 5980 is the chronograph alone. The 5990 adds a travel-time complication with local and home indicators and pushers on the left flank, in a slightly busier dial.
Has the chronograph been serviced?
That is set out for the individual watch. On a chronograph we confirm the pushers, the flyback function and the reset have been checked, and report any service history we can document.
How long does it take to source one?
It depends on the configuration and how specific the brief is. We tell you what is realistic at the start rather than quote a number we cannot keep.
Can I pay in crypto?
Yes. Bank transfer in any major currency, or crypto; Bitcoin (BTC), Ethereum, USDT and other major coins and stablecoins are accepted. The coin, network and amount are confirmed with you before any transfer.
Tell us the watch you have in mind
An exact reference or an idea is enough to start the conversation. We will take care of the search and discuss the options with you.