Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R

18 ct rose gold · black gradient dial · integrated rose gold bracelet · 40.5 mm

The Nautilus chronograph in rose gold on the gold bracelet, from 2013: one subdial reads minutes and hours, and nothing else crowds the dial. Sourced to your brief.

A rose gold Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph with a dark embossed dial, one large counter at six and an integrated rose gold bracelet, photographed on white
Reference
5980/1R-001
Metal
18 ct rose gold, case and bracelet
Dial
Black gradient
Calibre
CH 28-520 C
Introduced
2013
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R Request a different watch Source this watch

One subdial for minutes and hours, in rose gold on the gold bracelet.

The 5980 line began in steel in 2006, as the 5980/1A, the first Nautilus chronograph. The rose gold 5980/1R-001 followed in 2013, shown alongside the two-tone 5980/1AR, and Fratello noted that nothing changed but the metal: same case, same dimensions, same water resistance at the time. Its dial is a horizontally embossed black gradient that reads close to brown in some light; the brown dial proper belongs to the 5980R, the rose gold version on a strap.

The dial carries one counter, at six o'clock, and it does two jobs. Patek calls it a 60-minute and 12-hour monocounter: elapsed minutes are read on two concentric scales and hours on a third. The chronograph centre hand doubles as the running seconds, the date sits in a window at three, and the pushers are on the right only, start and stop at two, reset and flyback at four. The movement is calibre CH 28-520 C, self-winding, with a column wheel, a vertical disc clutch and a 21K gold rotor.

The steel 5980/1A gave way to the 5990/1A in 2014, and the 5980/1R is no longer in Patek Philippe's online collection, so this is a secondary-market search. The gold bracelet will matter as much as the watch. Availability and timing are confirmed for your request before you commit to anything.

  1. One monocounter at six reads 60 minutes and 12 hours
  2. Flyback chronograph on calibre CH 28-520 C, column wheel and disc clutch
  3. Black gradient dial in rose gold, from 2013
  4. Sourced to your brief; availability confirmed for each request

Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R specifications

Case and dial
Case
18 ct rose gold, 40.5 mm (2 to 8 o'clock), 44 mm across the hinges
Case back
Sapphire crystal
Dial
Black gradient, horizontally embossed, rose gold applied markers
Counter
60-minute and 12-hour monocounter at six, concentric scales
Date
Window at three, corrector at eight
Water resistance
120 m as specified at launch; confirmed for the individual watch
Movement
Calibre
CH 28-520 C, self-winding, 327 parts, 35 jewels
Chronograph
Flyback, column wheel, vertical disc clutch; centre hand doubles as running seconds
Regulation
Gyromax balance, 4 Hz
Power reserve
45 to 55 hours
Rotor
21K gold, central
Bracelet
Bracelet
18 ct rose gold, integrated
Clasp
Rose gold fold-over clasp

Nautilus 5980/1R vs 5990/1R

5980/1R 5990/1R
Chronograph counter60 minutes and 12 hours60 minutes only
Second time zoneNoYes, local and home
DateWindow at threeHand at twelve
Left flankPlainTwo pushers for local time
DialBlack gradientSunburst blue

Both are rose gold on the integrated bracelet. The 5980/1R times hours as well as minutes and keeps the left flank plain; the 5990/1R trades the hour count for a second time zone.

See the 5990/1R

Nautilus 5980/1R vs 5980/1A

5980/1R 5980/1A
Case and bracelet18 ct rose goldStainless steel
DialBlack gradientDark blue to black
Introduced20132006, the first Nautilus chronograph

Same chronograph, same monocounter, same case. The steel 5980/1A started the line; the 5980/1R is the gold version on the gold bracelet, and the reference to name rather than the 5980R if you do not want a strap.

Other watches we are asked for

Each page is a guide to the reference and how we source it, not a listing. If yours is not here, ask anyway.

Sourced to your brief, itemised before you decide

Nothing on this page is stock. Tell us what matters and we find the watch that fits.

The brief

Bracelet or strap: the 5980/1R on the gold bracelet, or the 5980R on a strap with the brown dial. Say if a full set with the Certificate of Origin matters.

Availability and timing

Confirmed for each request from our network, before you commit to anything. We tell you plainly what is realistic rather than quote a date we cannot keep.

What accompanies the watch

Original box, Certificate of Origin, booklets and any additional links are itemised for the individual watch we propose.

What we check on a 5980/1R

That the dial is the black gradient, not a brown 5980R dial; that the monocounter records hours as well as minutes and the flyback resets at four; the quick date change with the corrector at eight; and the gold bracelet for stretch, link wear and past polishing. An Extract from the Archives can be requested from Patek for the individual watch.

A private selling room with black lacquer cabinets, lit niches and two chairs at an oval table
Every request begins with a conversation: in London, or wherever you are.

How we source a Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph

  1. Brief

    Send the reference by WhatsApp or the form, with the dial, set and timing that matter to you. A collection or a style is enough to begin.

  2. Source

    We go to our network rather than a boutique list, and come back with what is realistic on availability and timing before you commit to anything.

  3. Verify

    Condition, documents and what accompanies the watch are set out in writing for the individual piece we propose. You decide with the details in front of you.

  4. Settle and deliver

    Bank transfer in any major currency, or crypto. Collection in London or fully insured delivery, agreed for the watch and the destination.

Source any other luxury watch

Any brand, any reference, whether or not it appears on this site. Tell us what you have in mind and we take it from there.

Frequently asked questions

Why does the 5980 have only one chronograph counter?

Patek uses a single monocounter at six that records both elapsed minutes, on two concentric scales, and elapsed hours, up to twelve. One subdial does the work of two, which keeps the dial clear.

Is the 5980/1R dial brown or black?

Black gradient, which can read brown in warm light. The brown dial belongs to the 5980R, the rose gold version on a strap.

Is the 5980/1R still made?

It no longer appears in Patek Philippe's online collection, so we source it on the secondary market. The 5980 survives in white gold on a strap as the 5980/60G.

What is the difference between the 5980 and the 5990?

The 5980 is the chronograph with an hour count. The 5990 of 2014 drops the hour count, moves the date to a hand at twelve and adds a second time zone, set by two pushers on the left flank.

Can I pay in crypto?

Yes. Bank transfer in any major currency, or crypto; Bitcoin (BTC), Ethereum, USDT and other major coins and stablecoins are accepted. The coin, network and amount are confirmed with you before any transfer.

Source a Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1R

An exact reference or an idea is enough to start the conversation. We will take care of the search and discuss the options with you.

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