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18 ct rose gold · brown dial · integrated bracelet · 40.5 mm
The Nautilus chronograph in rose gold, with the brown dial that only really works in this metal.
The 5980 was the first Nautilus chronograph, and its defining decision is what is not on the dial. Instead of separate minute and hour counters, Patek uses a single monocounter at six o'clock that reads elapsed time up to sixty minutes on two concentric scales. The dial stays clean, the Nautilus proportions survive, and the watch does not end up looking like a chronograph wearing a Nautilus case.
The movement is calibre CH 28-520 C, self-winding with a 21 ct gold rotor, and the chronograph is a flyback. In rose gold the brown gradated dial is the pairing Patek keeps coming back to — warm against the case in a way the blue and black dials are not.
It is a gold sports chronograph on an integrated gold bracelet, which puts it in small-production territory. This is a network search, and the condition of the bracelet will matter as much as the condition of the watch.
| 5980/1R | 5990/1R | |
|---|---|---|
| Complications | Flyback chronograph | Flyback chronograph and travel time |
| Calibre | CH 28-520 C | CH 28-520 C FUS |
| Pushers | Chronograph only, on the right | Two more on the left, for local time |
| Dial | Brown, a single monocounter | Blue, busier with home and local time |
Both are rose gold on the integrated bracelet. The 5980 is the cleaner dial; the 5990 earns its extra pushers if you cross time zones often.
See the 5990/1R| 5980/1R | 5980/1A | |
|---|---|---|
| Case and bracelet | 18 ct rose gold | Stainless steel |
| Dial | Brown | Blue |
| On the wrist | Heavy and warm | Lighter, the sports watch |
Same chronograph, same monocounter. In gold the brown dial is the pairing Patek keeps returning to; in steel the 5980 is closer to the 5711 it grew out of.
Each page is a guide to the reference and how we source it, not a listing. If yours is not here, ask anyway.
Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1A Read more 
Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1R Read more 
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-014 Read more 
Richard Mille RM 52-01 Tourbillon Skull Read more 
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 126500LN Read more 
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41 26240ST Read more 
Richard Mille RM 57-01 Tourbillon Phoenix and Dragon, Jackie Chan Read more 
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 126505 Read more Nothing on this page is stock. A gold Nautilus chronograph is a small-production watch, found rather than ordered.
The metal and the dial colour, and whether you want the bracelet or would take a strap reference. Say if a full set with the Certificate of Origin matters.
Confirmed for each request. We will tell you plainly what is realistic rather than quote a date we cannot keep.
Original box, Certificate of Origin, booklets and any additional links are itemised for the individual watch we propose.
Bracelet stretch, link wear and any past polishing are set out alongside originality, the chronograph's service history and any verification arrangements you want made.
Send the reference by WhatsApp or the form, with the dial, set and timing that matter to you. A collection or a style is enough to begin.
We go to our network rather than a boutique list, and come back with what is realistic on availability and timing before you commit to anything.
Condition, documents and what accompanies the watch are set out in writing for the individual piece we propose. You decide with the details in front of you.
Bank transfer in any major currency, or crypto. Collection in London or fully insured delivery, agreed for the watch and the destination.
Any brand, any reference, whether or not it appears on this site. Tell us what you have in mind and we take it from there.
Patek uses a monocounter that reads up to sixty minutes on two concentric scales, so one subdial does the job of two. It keeps the dial uncluttered and preserves the Nautilus proportions.
The 5980 is the chronograph alone. The 5990 adds a travel-time complication with local and home indicators and pushers on the left flank, in a slightly busier dial.
That is set out for the individual watch. On a chronograph we confirm the pushers, the flyback function and the reset have been checked, and report any service history we can document.
Yes. Bank transfer in any major currency, or crypto; Bitcoin (BTC), Ethereum, USDT and other major coins and stablecoins are accepted. The coin, network and amount are confirmed with you before any transfer.
An exact reference or an idea is enough to start the conversation. We will take care of the search and discuss the options with you.
